Understanding Fashion - Research Week 1 - 5th Dec

Its the first time I've been given a new brief! We had the old 'Generating Fashion' and now we have oh, so suddenly moved to 'understanding' it. Well I hope I will more after all this! Last friday we met at the Museum of Science and Industry just off Deansgate in Manchester. It was a cold morning, and I'm fortunately familiar to the museum but it still made it a whirlwind of a day! Briefing day is always a mind boggle. You have to take so much in and think so many different thoughts and collate your best ones together in a matter of hours. I have previously done a brief at Alevel focusing on the mechanics of the machines in the museum and was facinated by the electrical archives of the museum. It seamed like a peculiar choice, but one I was overly keen to explore. I struggled to find many electronic items in the museum on Friday but have a few days next week to collect more and digg a little deeper...

On Monday, as I wasn't too successful in finding a lot of electronic items at the museum on friday, I contacted an electronics and computing shop to ask if they had any spare/broken parts they did not need. They said yes! To my surprise it was two large boxes of miscellaneous objects including circuit boards and computing hard drives etc, exactly what I was going for! I had to be selective of the best pieces to draw my print/shape inspiration from, took photos, printed them and managed my photos from friday's visit. I also got my crispy white nylon, white jersey and medium weight calico. After the efforts of the working day were over I extended my love of fashion by going to check out the collaboration between Gareth Pugh for MAC cosmetics.

In pattern cutting this week, we learnt how to put lapels onto a jacket as a design feature. This was really interesting as you gained the control to be able to make them as minimal or as extreme as you desire. I started by using the calico - wrapping and twisting it into spiral forms to mimic the turbines in the aircraft room. Then I wanted to created sharper edges with the cotton, yet I found it too heavy. By switching to the nylon I realized that it held great structure and was giving me the large shapes I desire. I then changed to the jersey as I am more fond of lighter details and found myself with some good ideas to work on for the first shape making session.

Later on in the week I returned to MOSI as I still wasn’t set on a particular element of the museum to focus on as I didn’t have the best photos, so I spent the days taking high-quality photographs of the inside mechinics of the machinery, wires and circuits. These drawings and images really helped me to see details and structure coming through onto cloth for the next workshop on the Friday.

I really like the twists and turns in the fabric as it moulded to the body more and contourted it. I chose to explore this more on Friday in the workshop in the different fabrics, calico, nylon and jersey and see what worked best. The cotton was far to heavy and bulked, the nylon didn’t twist well enough to give a clean edge, yet the jersey had a very ‘Mark Fast’ and ‘David Koma’ effect on it and the twists and turns which invisioned the cable circuits contorted the body very interestingly. My sketch of the day made me think how I next need to consider the aspects of colour, surface texture, pattern, multiples and scale and proportion next week…

Friday 26th November - MMU FASHION GOES GUERILLA!

Photos taken on the day which highlight my shirt dress (orange and white one featured)

14/11/11 - Realisation Week 3 - FINAL WEEK!

Monday:

I think today is the first time Ive realised how time has flown by since the start of university! I cant believe its half way through november and I have just over a month left! Today I constructed my 2nd toile and was pleased with the fit and shape! Just hope other people are too. The dying went well and I bought my fabric 'cotton satin medium' some interfacing as it is a bit soft, buttons, bias binding and dye bucket! I met with Alison (contextualising practise seminar leader) for 5mins to discuss my essays. I really need to give them all a little start this week and it'll make next week so much easier! Bring on tomorrow pattern cutting this thing for real, wish me luck!

Tuesday:

After completing a set of sample dyes on my 2nd toile, I have descided that I love the rosewood red shade as it gives a birtn orangey/red colour that defies the shades autumn/winter trends always give us. Today I spent my time carefully making final tweeks to my pattern (learnt from my 2nd toile) and cutting it out. I tried my best to ensure it was on the grainline, rightside of the fabric and I was efficent as possible to create minimum waste in material. After cutting the fabric, I took it home to dye my fabric panels, I had to search a while for a domestic large bucket but found one, this made sure my work was clean throughout. By doing this at home I was able to be completely watchful over the dye and treat it the best I could. I then left this overnight to lead to my main contrustion day tomorrow...

Wednesday:

Today is the main contrustion day to my garment! Cant believe all this research, design and toiles have lead up to today, but I cant believe how clearer and more confident my head is about it now Ive gone through that process with complete dedication! I took my time today ensuring that I was high on quality control, therefore I was very grateful that the workshop shut at 6:30pm! I was happy with my garment when I left, I dfound being patient on the overlockers still something I need to address and the busyness of the workshop very stressful, but managed to keep myself together. All I need to do now is add the buttons (as buttonholes are done!) buy dust/lint remover, dress bag and hanger!

Thursday:

Today was the knit workshop! We we able to work on the dubied machines with the double beds! Surprisingly they were a lot easier for me to get my head around after using the domestic machines the other week. I was surprised to not see as many people there as last week, but I suppose it is deadline week, but I made sure my work was done so I could come today! We learnt ripple knits, more laddering, wavy laddering, how to make a tube (front bed then back bed), how easy it is to swap colours etc. I am LOVING these knit workshops! Need to get myself down there next week!

Friday:

I came in early to fit my buttons, press my garment and neaten the edges a little before tutorial. It was a nice tutorial to finally see people's work come together and see the whole process piecing up as a whole. Going through the tutorial, Sarah told us some of the areas we were missing or had to revise. My 'to-do' list for this afternoon (before work 10-5am) is; take photos for shop report in town, sew buttons, produce A3 boards of workings drawings x4 (including one final design sheet), Annotate and title boards and sketchbook, go to library for journals (contextualising practise) and write conclusion sheet off moodle. So proud of myself for getting it all sorted and my work fully organised before work! I have the weekend to sort out any final problems and perfect my work.

07/11/11 - Realisation Week 2

Monday:

As part of our contextualising practise lecture this week, we were made to choose a collection in order to research for our final essays. The lecture had great variety from the special collections, here at man met. library to the film archives which had an eye opening film on fashion in the 40s/50s on cotton in fashion. I was really cool to see the differance between how muted a fashion show was then by only having a few buyers to how popular culture has made it the phenomeon we know today with bloggers, magazine editors to celebrity. I ended up choosing the journal collections as I really want to find vogue from my birthday as I know Kate Moss was on the cover, hairstyles by James Brown. Or any other that catches my eye. I'm scheduled for 10am on Friday 18th November for my collection meeting.

Tuesday:

Today was crunch time in pattern cutting. With my final idea and a long fresh batch of calico I went to finally get my head around how I would make my rather complex design. After I arrived I instantly regretted designing something of such complexity, but if I'd of gone for the ultra-symplistic route I would not feel that sense of achievement or satisfaction with my design in the end. My final fabric will hopefully be cotton organdy (at £12.50 a mtr), which is rather expensive but hopefully with give it the luxurious feel and quality I desire. I managed to get a very clear view of my pattern plan after explaining my ideas/plan to Robin, which gave me a good start and direction. I made all my pieces and cut them out ready to sew at 9am tomorrow so I get a good table!

Wednesday:

Today I got in at 9am so I got a good table and a good headstart! my first 'toile', or should I say toile 0.5 was made by around 11. Then i hade to create the otoshiana (drop hole) process (found in the pattern magic book) which requires me making the hole out of a flat and tubular shaped calicos and fitting i into a hole in the dress. I then drew on my seams to the dress to create odd angular shapes. I then translated the cut calico pieces to pattern paper (around 10 additions to the pattern) and added 1cm seam allowance. Then I cut the pattern out and designed and made a collar (i want to experiment with a rounded collar) all cut out to sew together as my officall 1st toile tomorrow then I have my first knit workshop! I managed to go into town to abakhan to get my cord for my piped seams just in time too!

Thursday:

Today I was really keen to get on ith my first toile after having all my pieces cut and cord etc. As I was creating the garment it did seem like i was creating three seperate shirts, but I wanted to stick by my design and attempt to reflect what I have come up with in the process. From the whole week of pattern creating, cutting and sewing once I was near the end of sewing, I placed my toile on the stand to see that its fit was terrible, the otoshiana (drop hole) was completely flat and overall the design looked terrible! I had the knit workshop at 1:30pm, yet I knew Robin was around, after being informed he had just left the workshop at 1pm I e-mailed him for help as I was left lost and disappointed with myself and went to the knit workshop.

The knit workshop really lifted my spirits after my design made me feel like a failure. We firstly learnt and recieved samples of differant types of knit, sampled finger knitting and differant types of weaves. One of the workshop technicians called Sue showed us the right and wrong ways to steam set our samples as most types of knit curls and needs to be flattened. Then we got a go on the domestic hand knitting machines! They were tricky to work at first but then i was soon trying out all the techniques Dr Annie Shaw showed us. I just need to find time to come and practise randomly so I can get better! I need to finish hand knitting my hat for winter too!

Luckily after the workshop at 4:30pm I found Robin in the corridor. I showed him my design and my toile. I wanted more volume in the very flat drop hole which would require me adding panels to the back and inbetween. After deliberating this, and showing him some of my designs, he admitted and I thouroughly agreed that it should be kept simple like my original puzzle dress I created a few weeks ago. I will extend it to a more modern 3/4 length, add blocks of colour (burnt orange/red), add a grandad collar (full collar will be strange) and a long placket down the back!

Friday:

Up bright and early again to pattern cut the new design before tutorial. This time I had no hitches and had just enough calico for my pattern (phew!). In tutorial I explained my meeting discussion with robin about my first toile and fortunately Louise agreed that my work did have too much going on, and after showing her my puzzle dress and ideas for final design she said it would be a good idea to make it. Just need to dye my panels for monday stitch up and buy final fabrics! Phew!

31/10/11 - Realisation Week 1

Monday:

Today was a lecture on time for contexualising practise, I thought it was good to evaluate time in terms of desig and quality control. Also how time binds us together as a world in habits and things we arange together.

Tuesday:

In pattern cutting today we learnt how to create a yolk on a garment (getting rid of the dart with keeping the volume, regularly found on jeans etc), how to add volume to a pattern and experimenting with sleeves. I really enojyed it this week as I was able to visualise and half create a lot of the outcomes we did with flat pattern cutting. Plus we got to sew together the shirt blocks which I love doing!

Wednesday:

The lecture on print was this morning. I am really interested in making print a big part fo some of my future designs. Its not cheap to digitally print fabric, but can look amazing! One of my favourite designers Mary Katrantzou used prints so beautifully I can definately see a inspirational project coming soon! Im eager to create designs using print to express and exaggerate colour shape and volume! So excited for this! I love colour and print lets you use it wholeheartedly :D

Thursday:

I had my last ever sewing induction today! To be honest i really have enjoyed being taught step by step sewing/construction techniques as I never really have before, Ive jsut got on with it as its one of those things people never tend to teach in GCSE or A level. After this I wanted to try my hand at designing a short suit for myself. I found the jacket very straightforward, yet the shorts a little bit harder! I think I need to make a pattern from ones I have at home to get them the perfect fit for me.

Friday:

I think this was the first ever tutorial that my work really spoke for itself. I was confident about it, knew my market, targets, design ethic and pathway etc and I think it showed in the way I presented it to Louise today as she finally got what I meant all this time! She helped me realise that next week I need to start making my first toile in lightweight calico, then creat the final in see through organdie. Cant wait to get paint sampling for my colours either. Gonna try and making it very christopher kane! Definately a 'realisation' week for me!

23/10/11 Design Week 2

Monday:

I found the contextualising practise leacture on drawing very relateable today! (see seperate posts)

Tuesday:

Pattern cutting today seemed more complicated than usual! We had to use our tissue paper patterns and construct them onto calico. I ended up redrawing mine out so it was more simple to achieve and construct. Due to the sewing room shutting at 4:30pm I shall do this after my sewing workshop on thursday. Robin showed us how to add a button panel, collar edge and collar to our patterns which I took to fully and really enjoyed the results! It will be interesting to see all this unfold as I put the examples in my file for future use!

Wednesday:

A lecture on Knit today really took me by surprise. I have always dabbled in knit and left it. I have never been persistant, patient or forgiving of the time good knitwear takes to create. This lecture taught me how limitless kintwear can become is you give it all those qualities! After the lecture I found myself renting a book from the library on the basics of knitting. Before I have created a scarf (very basic) and attempted a hat, knitted animal and cup warmer - none of which I have finished! I need to grab my needles again and really get on the knitting bandwagon as this is definately something that inspires me greatly!

Thursday:

In the sewing workshop today, we learnt how to set in a sleeve and create a cuff stand! it was a bit tricky and I will probably need to practise more before doing it on a finishing garment, but I was still proud of my first attempt. After this I finished my tissue paper pattern shirt front and back, putting the oddly shaped darts in was hard at first but I managed to do it in the end.

Friday:

Today in tutorial my work was managed to be put together as my tutor found it to be a little bit 'bitty'. I have done quite a few design sheets in detail and these need to be traslated into more of a colection basis. My aims for next week are : use contrast in colour; create a template to suit my work; 6-8 complete 'looks/range; alter designs to get best possible idea; use the otoshiana technique through designing; bod big shapes; finish with a ange plan.

17/10/11 Design Week 1

Monday:

Contextualising practise lecture and seminar (see seperate posts for thoughts)

Tuesday:

Today in pattern cutting we developed ideas using a medium weight calico. I enjoyed this more than using the shirts as it gave me more freedom to create more avant garde shapes and sillouettes. I also experimented with tucks and pleats to create a swirling movement along the fabric, the photos below show my developing work. We also had a go at drawing a shirt in two differant ways, a simplified way that would go towards a manufacturing company and a trace down version of the shirt in life-size on pattern paper. At first I found it hard not to draw the shirt in a illustrative way so had to simplify my design a lot, but i learnt how in industry it is essential too otherwise the manufactuer will not understand the design as a whole.

Wednesday:

We had a breif lecture today on how our journal should be made digital and personal (a lot like this then) by updating my thoughts and processes every week I am helping myself through the breif and course aswell and updating my lecturers and tutors with how I feel with certian aspects of the course

Thursday:

The sewing workshop for today was on pockets! We learnt how to do a front trouser pocket (a lot less complicated than it looked); a back jean pocket and a closed pocket. (see file for the samples and more info)

Friday:

Tutorial today left me a on a bit of a downer. I showed my work up until now and it didnt seems to translate as well as it does in my own head. Although I was initally upset that my work wasnt translating very easily I took the criticism constructively and made more boards and edited my old ones to create a much simpler idea. Louise also gave me ideas on how to design well using ideas I have come up with already which made my work clearer and more directional.

10/10/11 Research Week 3

Monday:

Another contextualising practise leacture took place today (see separate posts for info)

Tuesday:

Pattern cutting today consisted of us using our shirts again for more inspiration and ideas. As my work is getting a sculptural and angular format to it, im finding this hard to do as softer shapes and a more draped sillouette is all I seem to be producing, which is making my work very confusing! We also learnt how to move a dart on a shirt, b taking an exsisting dart and scaling it up into a differant position on the pattern (see file of examples).

Wednesday:

Today after my second lecture by Alsion Welch, in which we looked at more journals that were inspiring and very simiplistic with a beautiful artistic flair. I managed to use the book from the reading list today 'pattern magic' and create a dress using the idea of 'holes'. Firstly i made a basic toile for an undarted dress, this was then cut into and tubes with flat bottoms inserted, I then drew on seam markings, cut it up, created my pattern on pattern paper and reconstructed the dress. I loved the vision of recontructing through deconstruction and want to take this further into my designs.

Thursday:

Today in the sewing workshop we discovered how to make differant zip fastenings in garments. These include: a fly front fastening for men and women; a concealed zip and an invisible zip. These are in my file for future referance.

Friday:

In the tutorial today it is the end of the research process for this breif, we managed to round up our work and summarise what it has to say for us! By creating mood boards under the titles of shape and structure, texture and pattern, trends, colour, consumer profile, detail and shop report or research will by directional and help with the further design process!

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03/10/11 Research Week 2

Monday:

Again we had our contextualising practise lecture, which always start me off on a very thought prevoking mood for the week ahead (see contextualising practise week 2 post)

Tuesday:

Pattern cutting today advanced a little bit further, which meant it got a little bit more complicated! We took in some tissue paper and had to create a fitted shape on the tailors dummy by using tucks, pleats and darts to get the best fit. It was really hard to do as the tissue paper kept tearing or creasing so a fitting sillouette was a struggle. We then transferred then out flat onto pattern paper, with a seam allowance to create at a later date.

Then we had to get a solid shapely object and construct a pattern to make it. By using masking tape, we covered the vertical and horizontal sides of it and drew a pattern on to add a seam allowance to on pattern paper.

Wednesday:

Alison Welch gave us a lecture today on how to research. By showing us sketchbooks and idea from previosu students and successful designers it gave me great ideas and inspiration for my own work, whilst feed my creativity by giving it no boundaries.

Thursday:

This was my first practical sewing workshop today. We learnt how to make differant seams such as: the plain seam; bound seam; top-stitched seam; piped or corded seam; french seam; and run and fell seams. It was great to finally use an industrial machine and learn how easy they are to use!

Friday:

Tutorial today made me realise that my work was a bit all over the place. I find it really hard to get one focused sense of direction and run with it as I usually never think its a good enough idea in my research stage! hopefully I can pull through an idea from all this random creativity!

Platt Hall 01/10/11

Just down from the Curry Mile in Machester is home to the most beautiful treasure trove of costume galleries I have seen in a long time, Platt Hall. After the scenic and ethic walk down I was greeted by a small Georgian looking building that homed some gorgeous items of clothing that made you think differantly to how fashion has developed and changed. They had contemporary 21st century collections including designer/high street collaborations. Then decade collections, war time clothing, period clothing and an Yves Saint Laurent special collection. Overall, after taking many first hand observational drawings I had a great day out.

Yorkshire Sculpture Park 28/09.11

A visit to the the Yorkshire Sculpture Park was a very differant museum experience. Its did take an anticipatingly long time to travel to get there, but it was worth the wait. The grounds displayed the large and artistfuly crafted sculptures beautifully, shapes, textures and sillouettes of the sculptures were very inspiring and I immediately thought of some ideas even walking round. Here are a few photos from the day out:

26/09/11 Research Week 1

Monday:

I had my introduction to using the mac suite first this morning before I got on with anything. It was good to know that the uni had a great set of resources that didnt require us buying our own. I loved how using the scanners and photoshop and can make your work even better and hope to use the skills Ive learned today in my design process. I also had my first contextualising practise leacture which really gave me an alternate view on thinking like a 'designer'.

Tuesday:

I have been desperate to visit the manchester city art gallery due to thier recent exhibition with 'Grayson Perry' as I have always admired his work from the BBC Culture Show. Here is a few of my favourite pieces from the collection including Perry's pot and Alice Kettle. This was my first ever pattern cutting practical session today aswell! Firstly we were given a basic shirt block, we had to draw on the notches, darts and grainlines ourselves and create a pattern paper copy. Then we went to create shapes and garment ideas on a tailors dummy usings two shirts. We found the two shirts restricted us a little, so when paired up to create a very large creation.Wednesday:

Today I went and visited 'Yorkshire Sculpture Park' its was beautiful day which really helped me to see the scultpures in thier best and truest form (see next post)

Thursday:

This was my first sewing workshop today. We learnt what all the machines in the workshop were used for. How to use the standard industrial machines and overlockers. There are some basic pattern blocks hanging up which look fantastic to have a creative idea with! The button machines have to be operated by one of the technitians, but the irons and heat press where fantastic for pressing and using interfacing quickly! Im looking forward to using this studio workspace!

Friday:

My first tutorial session with Louise was today. It was good to show the early direction I had taken to the breif to her and for her to give me feedback and direction for my next week of research. I left feeling like I had a lot more to do but with more of a direction and understanding. A good wrap up to the weeks work so far!